On stuck screws, after using the above methods, we use a screw-jack, or jig, to hold the bit in one place on the gun, and over the screw, so that if a bit does break, the driver, and broken bit, can’t skate over the gun, as it stays in place over the screw.

On very expensive guns, where some screws are no longer available, and hard to make a replacement for, we grind a fishtail-like taper into the hollow-grind of the bit, where the tip of the bit is slightly thicker than the hollow-ground body above it. This allows the torque to be placed in the bottom of the screw slot, and not against the edges of the top of the slot, that will show on the finish.

On thin slotted, European-type, gun screws, watch the torque, as the thin bits are weak, and can break easily.

Finally, never use standard tapered blade screwdrivers on any gun screw, if you don’t want to mar the screw slot (I don’t use these screwdrivers on anything). Only use hollow ground drivers, or bits, that have a tight fitting, flat blade to insert into the slot. Look for cabinet-type screwdrivers, or bit sets, as they are hollow ground. I have been trying out the Weaver bit sets, and have found them to work as well as some of the more expensive brands. The largest set also has a coin-type, rounded-tip bit, that will fit most coin-slotted screws on take-down 22 rifles.