Gun Review: Classic Remington Model 1100

Gun Review Remington Model 1100 Classic Field.

The Remington Model 1100 Classic Field.

My Personal Report Card

I’ll admit it; I’m biased and not entirely unsentimental when it comes to Remington’s Old School M1100, especially should that piece, like mine, come in a 16-gauge format. I mean really, what’s not to like about a gun that looks good, cleans up easily, and works each and every time you pull the trigger?

True, I’ve heard that the newer generation autoloaders from Big Green have had their issues; we won’t even broach the subject of the ill-fated Model Cti105. Still, I believe it says something about a firearm, and here I’m speaking specifically of my M1100, when I say that after 32 years and tens of thousands of rounds, this particular autoloader still sports her original rubber O-Ring – as fragile a part as was ever put on this field piece.

Honestly, I can’t recall one mechanical misfortune where this shotgun is concerned, and I believe if you ask him, my Pop would say the same about his M1100. Perhaps it’s true; they – whoever they are – just don’t make ‘em like they used to.

Now for the bad news. If you’ve read this and are thinking – “Boy, howdy! I’d love to get my hands on one of those Old School M1100’s in a 16-gauge!” – well, you probably have your work cut out for you.

There are guns out there. However, many you find on the Internet are Remington’s reintroduction of the M1100 16-gauge, this one built on a 12-gauge frame, and thus not a “true” 16 to my way of thinking. That said, I did run across one of these 12/16-gauge pieces, new in the box, with a 26-inch barrel and three choke tubes at gunsamerica.com for $650. Other new/old examples averaged from $200 to $400.

This article appeared in the May 9, 2011 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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2 thoughts on “Gun Review: Classic Remington Model 1100

  1. Eightsouthman

    If any parts should break there will be a pattern of where it was to repair it. Any good craftsman with a couple of straight edges can align a part to exactly as it was before. The fore-end hanger can be held exactly with a clamp and spot welded again(think auto repair)or any other method including rod welded(oh yes), MIG welded, TIG welded or brazed. I’m not sure a good silver solder job like high quality silver solder used on a/c repair wouldn’t hold as well. Never say never.

    I have seen one gun I couldn’t fix after “fixing” it several times. A Weatherby Patrician after only several boxes of light bird loads broke the carrier than ran in a groove in the chamber off the carrier itself, a matter of two pins that held it in. There was one on either side but just the one side would break. After re-brazing, breaking and remaking new pins of a larger diameter and breaking again(always broke the pins loose)and re-brazing after a couple more pins of ever increasing diameter I finally gave up and sold the gun. Too bad about the design. It was the absolute lightest shooting 12 gauge I had ever used including a full weight A-5 Browning.

  2. 7x57

    The good and bad points on the Rem. 1100.

    The 1100 is probably the best auto loader out there but not as reliable or as well balanced as the old Browning recoil operated a-5 light weight. The 1100 to me personally has always felt like a club when swinging it.

    It is a heavy gun with its steel receiver which is good for competition but bad for hunting all day long.

    Like any auto-loader they do not last long when used heavily in competition so expect to replace parts in the 1100. The o ring should be changed once a year as it is noted for giving up the ghost.

    Keep the gun lubed and very clean as you would any other auto loader or expect functioning problems.

    Parts I have seen break are the ejector, bolt buffer, fore-end hanger (which is two pieces of stamped sheet metal spot welded together). Do not man handle this part when taking the gun down to clean it. I have seen the main spring housing break off and when this happens the gun is now a single shot. Do not attempt to re-braze this part yourself as it must be dead on or the bolt will not cycle. Remington by the way wants a whopping $300 bucks to fix this as was told to me several months ago by Remington.

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