Comments on: That Pesky Spring: Two Tricks to Reassemble Your 1911

By: p_wallace

p_wallace — Thu, 01 Nov 2012 05:39:39 +0000

Really this is hard? Just place the pin in the hole JMB provided and gently slide the slide (HA HA) back and forth until it slips into the link. I don’t think it could be easier. If field stripping and then reassembling a 1911 gives you problems then you should not buy a complicated gun. JMB designed it perfectly that is why it is still THE PERFECT PISTOL after 100+ years.

By: rb

rb — Mon, 24 Sep 2012 00:17:14 +0000

Is this Colt’s new break-in procedure?

By: rb

rb — Mon, 24 Sep 2012 00:15:55 +0000

It seems that it is easier to align the link on a Commander than the full size ones. Just trying to coordinate the slide, push, hold, eyes and grip-hand can get frustrating. A third hand or twelve fingers might make it easier.
I’ve never done it, but what worries me is what would happen if a pistol was assembled with the link not engaged? I want to stay scared of it…

By: Wm

Wm — Fri, 24 Aug 2012 11:01:15 +0000

For thousands of GI Sgts and Company Grade Officers the standard 1911 drill has been Field Strip, assembly and safety function check in one min..for fun blindfolded..

If your 1911 is too tight to assemble in that fashion..

Maybe it is too tight..

If it is too pristine.. to pretty to exicute the above drill in say two min..

Maybe it is too pristine and too pretty..

The 1911 is a hammer.. more reciently someone called it “a brick that shoots bullets” That’s not a bad discription either.

Clear your weapon check it a few times to be sure then drop it into a muddy sand bank.. rinse it off.. wipe it with your shirt.. Lube it with some oil from your vehicle..then shoot the heck out of it..

Take it out and use it.. Give it some real life experiences.. give it some personality.

When you see a 40 year old 1911 silver/white from wear.. spot of rust now scrubbed but the mark still on the C of Colt from a long ago monsoon season, strange flat spots that appear like they came from it pounding at the end of it’s dummy cord on the side of Tank rolling down a road at 0300 when it’s owner after three days of being awake fell asleep standing in the TC Hatch.. Other side a few deep scratches where 30 years later the same fellow (considerably older himself) laid his Motorcycle down when some morons oiled the road without marking the area under construction.. a 10 year old aftermarket alluminum rail which leaves it strangely looking like the Grandpa of the Marine’s “new” 1911 Pistol.

Now you have something..

Treating your 1911 like a French Poodle is UnAmerican..

By: Walt

Walt — Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:50:10 +0000

Folks, the “Combination Spring” referred to in the tip is actually the Sear Spring. It’s wise to know and use the proper nomenclature as called out in the exploded diagram above. You’ll get a blank stare if you ask a vendor for a “Combination Spring.”

“Seating” the Slide Stop (not “Slide Latch,” please see above) takes some practice and finesse. The technique is difficult to describe in writing. Press the lug on the back of the slide stop against the protruding slide stop plunger. While applying pressure against the stop, “wipe” the lug down (clockwise) very slightly; when you feel the slide stop moving towards the frame, shift your pressure to wiping back upwards (counter clockwise). The lug should snap into place in the notch provided for it in the slide. The motion is more a “wiggle” than a “wipe.” The procedure is lavishly illustrated on page 156 of “The M1911 Complete Owner’s Guide.”

Regards,

Walt
PS And yes, I wrote the book

By: SmithKoWitz

SmithKoWitz — Mon, 20 Aug 2012 17:01:38 +0000

Personally I have no issue with aligning the link with the barrel, I have an issue getting the slide stop lever popping in at the back, tight up against the frame. Have to push the spring loaded safety plunger back with thumbnail. This is a critical area I have found, as it is possible to scratch the frame if you have to push too hard to pop the latch into place.